Canterbury Bells Flower: How to Grow and Care

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Bell flowers are an intriguing set of backyard flowers that largely blossom following the spring bulbs but until the summer perennials such as daylilies.

During its first period of life, it grows as a dinner plate dimensions rosette of leaves little to distinguish it from a frequent weed.

However, in the spring of its next year, the rosette begins to elongate and masses of bell-shaped flowers are created in an open panicle. Plants typically branch from the bottom of the rosette with the fundamental stem reaching 3 feet while encompassed by side branches just 1-2 feet tall.

The blossoms are in colors of blue, purple, pink or white using all the 2-inch long flower tube the diameter of a fat sexy dog. In the normal type, the calyx isn’t showy, but in the choice called the Cup-and-Saucer Bellflower, it’s considerably enlarged and coloured the exact same colour of this flower. This type has the overall look of a long-trumpet daffodil however in grim.


Canterbury Bells
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Campanula medium reaches roughly 60–80 centimetres (24–31 in) in height. This biennial herbaceous plant forms rosettes of leaves in the very first year, stalks and flowers in the next one. The stem is erect, strong, reddish-brown and bristly hairy. The top leaves are smaller, lanceolate and sessile, nearly embracing the stem.

The flowers are arranged in a racemose inflorescence of exceptionally long lasting blossoms. These alluring bell-shaped flowers are short-stalked, big and hermaphroditic, with various colors of violet-blue or seldom white. The corolla has five fused petals with softly bent lobes (called a coronate flower type).

The hermaphroditic flowers are self-fertilized (autogamy) or pollinated by insects (bees, butterflies, etc.)(entomogamy).The seeds ripen from Aug to September and are spread by gravity alone (“barochory”).

Canterbury Bells Distribution

Canterbury Bells Flower
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Canterbury Bells are indigenous to the mountains of southern Europe and have been grown in gardens since at the beginning of the 19th century. The Victorians particularly seemed to love their gaudy attractiveness and were willing to put up with their demanding ways to grow successfully.

They’re more popular in northern climes but may be grown in our southern gardens when planting schedules are corrected to our requirements.

How to Grow Canterbury Bells Flower

It thrives in full sun to partial shade and enjoys moist, well-draining dirt and fairly cool temperatures. Consequently, if you reside in a relatively hot climate, give lots of afternoon shade. Like many bellflower crops, Canterbury bells can easily be propagated by seeds.

These ought to be launched in late spring or early summer, thinning as required once seedlings become big enough. You require only minimal covering soil. Simply sprinkle seeds in the garden bed and permit nature to do the remainder (obviously, you’ll have to keep the region watered).

Mature plants will probably self-seed easily, but only in case, you might choose to maintain some recently started plants in a different nursery baskets or bed for transplanting later, typically in spring.

Canterbury Bells Flower Care

Canterbury Bells Flower 2
image by: Stevebidmead –

During the initial year, you must expect just a low-growing clump or rosette of green leaves. These could be overwintered under a thick layer of compost.

Be aware of slugs or snails, as they like munching on the foliage. From the next year, Canterbury bells flowers will shape, typically in summer, atop tall, upright stems. In reality, they might even require staking to keep them vertical. As an alternative, you can plant them around shrubby plants to get extra support.

Canterbury bells make excellent cut flowers. The big, showy flowers seem as dangling bells (thus the title ), which finally open up into cup-shaped blossoms.

Flower color can vary from white to pink, blue, or purple. Deadheading can occasionally encourage re-blooming in addition to maintain appearances.

In addition, it is a fantastic way to store seeds for new developments. It is almost always a fantastic idea, however, to leave some flowers intact to self-seed also. In this manner you double your chances of growing Canterbury bells year in, year out.

I have never noticed bedding plants of the species readily available, which means you’re going to need to grow your own plants.

The simplest approach is to plant seeds from doorways in May or June and grow the plants vegetatively that year in certain out-of-the-way corner of their garden. The plants may be grown in the soil in a bright, well-drained corner of their vegetable garden or else they are generated in gallon nursery containers.

Foxgloves may be grown the exact same manner and having many distinct species to do will increase the probability of having something be prosperous.

In the autumn at pansy planting period, the Canterbury Bells plants must be transferred to the flower bed where they will bloom the following spring.

Plants may be grown in full sun or light shade. They do best in a reasonably fertile soil using a near-neutral pH. Staking can be demanded if the plants begin producing their blossom display.


  • Grows in rugged clumpsup to 20-26 in. Tall (50-65 cm) and 12-18 in. Broad (30-45 cm).
  • Thrives in full sun or part shade, in fertile, moist, well-drained lands. This plant tolerates a broad selection of soil types if well-drained
  • Ideal for beds, borders, underplanting shrubs or roses, cottage gardens or containers. Plant in groups for best visual effect.
  • Simple to grow, this very low care perennial is also deer and rabbit resistant and loved by hummingbirds, bees and butterflies.
  • Don’t cut back after flowering if self-seeding is wanted. However, removing of those spent flower spikes can promote second flush of flowers.
  • Easily split in spring or autumn. In milder regions sow right in the autumn


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